蒂姆邓肯自传:南京一天

        从上海买到扬州到北京的火车票，时间是六月九号晚上的。有朋友的帮助，苏州，无锡，镇江，扬州一路下来把主要的景点转下来，还剩了一天。要不就在扬州找个地方去水包肉，要不就去趟南京。在扬州转了一天，没看见澡堂在哪。早上吃了那个富春茶社的包子，就算到了扬州。还是去南京。九号不是周末，没有旅行团。自个坐长途去自个游。看看中山陵，看看夫子庙，看看总统府南京也就算又玩了一次。从扬州到南京来回都顺利。就是赶上了十天中的头一场大雨，雨中的南京别有一番滋味，不过雨中的摄影咱不会，很难拍出雨点颗颗。离开南京的时候，老同学特地赶到车站，多年不见，他也旅游。

        南京长途东站好像离中山陵不远，穿过紫金山那郁郁葱葱的林荫道就到。到底是中山陵，一切都井然有序，景区之间还有小火车，让你可以较快地浏览。中山陵，无梁殿，灵谷寺...看中山陵的时候小雨渐停，到了陵丘雨就开始大了起来，到无梁殿，灵谷寺几乎瓢泼。

        中山陵过去来过，这次到了祭堂的后面，看到了修建的历史展览。这宏伟壮观的中山陵讲究多，修建也不易。

        中山陵的主要建筑有：牌坊、墓道、陵门、石阶、碑亭、祭堂和墓室等，排列在一条中轴线上，墓地全局呈"警钟"形图案 ，其中祭堂为仿宫殿式的建筑，建有三道拱门，门楣上刻有“民族，民权，民生”横额。祭堂内放置孙中山先生大理石坐像，壁上刻有孙中山先生手书《建国大纲》全文。 陵墓入口处有高大的花岗石牌坊，上有中山先生手书的“博爱”两个金字。从牌坊开始上达祭堂，共有石阶392级，8个平台，代表着当时中国三亿九千二百万同胞。

        当年中山陵设计建筑招标，年仅33岁的青年建筑师吕彦直设计的警钟形图案被一致评为首奖。他本人也被聘主持全部工程。孙中山先生在临终遗嘱中说，余致力于国民革命四十年，深知欲达到此目的，必须唤起民众。吕彦直的陵区平面警钟形设计，给人以警钟长鸣的寓意，最贴切地表达了“唤起民众”。吕彦直是山东省东平县人，1894年生于天津。早年在清华大学建筑系毕业后，被公费派往美国康奈尔大学深造，得到美国著名设计师茂菲的指导。广州中山纪念堂也是他的巨作。修建中山陵的时候吕彦直呕心沥血，不辞辛劳。在工程接近尾声时，身患肝癌，于1929年3月18日病逝，时年36岁。他是随中山先生去的啊。还有祭堂正中是一尊石雕孙中山全身坐像，像高4.6米，底座宽2.1米，用意大利白色大理石雕刻而成。只见中山先生身穿长袍马褂，膝上放着一本展开的文卷，双目凝视前方，显示出一位伟大思想家的深沉和睿智。坐像是由法籍波兰雕刻家保罗·郎特斯基雕琢而成的，它于1930年雕成后从治国巴黎运到中山陵。

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        中山陵景区有灵谷寺，灵谷寺有无梁殿，是明初修建，是我国最早最大的无梁殿。形制高大，全用砖砌，不用寸钉片木。1928年，国民政府决定在中山陵东侧的灵谷寺址改建国民革命军阵亡将士公墓，增建牌坊、纪念堂及纪念塔。在由灵谷寺无梁殿改建的纪念堂内，镌刻着北伐、抗日诸役阵亡将士姓名军衔，据计当时共刻碑10块，有人名33000多个。现在进去，看到无梁殿四墙下都是描绘国民革命早期的历史蜡像。看着有些乱。

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        这里的灵谷寺可是名刹，应该是清代的建筑。说是寺内殿宇如云，富丽堂皇，浮屠耸立。无奈我佛缘太浅，看见门口又要收费，雨又大，就没有进去看看。                                                                                  -

        从中山陵出来，已经过了中午，打的去夫子庙。路上询问，司机说，夫子庙最好吃的是鸭血粉丝汤和鸭油烧饼。说罢直接把车开到夫子庙边上的一个小店。有汤没烧饼，很快自个端上来，尝尝果然鲜美，就是有点咸。吃完了，打着伞顺着秦淮河李香君的故居，看夫子庙，看贡院。一路上少了臭豆腐的香味，多了洋文广告。

        秦淮河是南京古老文明的摇篮。远在石器时代，流域内就有人类活动。从东水关至西水关的沿河两岸，东吴以来一直是繁华的商业区的居民地。六朝时成为名门望族聚居之地，商贾云集，文人荟萃，儒学鼎盛。隋唐以后，渐趋衰落，却引来无数文人骚客来此凭吊，咏叹“旧时王谢堂前燕，飞入寻常百姓家”。到了宋代逐渐复苏为江南文化中心。明清两代，是十里秦淮的鼎盛时期。金粉楼台，鳞次栉比；画舫凌波，浆声灯影构成一幅如梦如幻的美景奇观。现在夫子庙这一段的秦淮河又变得繁花似锦，要不是今天有大雨，游人也该如织吧。

        明清的时候这里修了孔庙，还有明清时候的考场江南贡院。都算秦淮河边上夫子庙景区的建筑群。现在时代不同了，佛爷圣人爱财的本性都表现出来。进孔庙不但要钱，万世师表的孔子像前都摆上了功德箱。那个身高四米半的铜身孔子面前不但有石塑的弟子，还有跪拜彩塑的书生顽童。大堂里高悬一幅全国最大的孔子画像，高6.5米，宽3.15米。38幅反映孔子生平事迹的巨幅彩石镶嵌壁画就在大成殿的内墙。孔庙的后院，文曲星下凡，大概谁给钱谁烧香就给谁的卷子上画个钩，保佑你中第。那贡院前面都是商铺，只留下当年赶考的举子在大街上定格。

        看了半天，发现走反了，应该先看贡院，或者先看孔庙。人家过去的读书人都是这样，拜完孔子就考试，考试结束就娱乐，或坐花船或喝花酒。这样才显现孔文化的博大。不信？这里的小吃都是夫子庙小吃，不叫秦淮河小吃，喷喷香。这里的青楼女子都谙孔道，看看人家李香君：李香君本是明末媚香楼的名妓，爱上了明末和皇上作对的东林党文人侯方域，结果那个侯方域到底没有骨气，不但抓东林党的时候做了叛徒，大清的兵丁杀过来的时候立刻归顺。倒是那个李香君常住孔庙边上，受孔子的熏陶，宁折不弯，死于非命。不同版本的桃花扇说的就是这个事。所以啊，这一条街上到哪都能学到孔子的精神！还有现在的电影院，上映的也是孔子。  

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