九乡新闻网贾斯汀比伯资产:用茶做菜有多难？
来源：百度文库 编辑：九乡新闻网 时间：2024/04/30 18:14:49
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Grand Hyatt Hong Kong
香港君悦酒店(Grand Hyatt Hotel)粤式餐厅港湾一号(One Harbour Road)的“茶熏脆鸡”。
下
次你在中国饭馆里喝茶时，试试给茶杯里加一茶匙的盐，然后再小啜一口。
香港君悦酒店(Grand Hyatt Hotel)粤式餐厅港湾一号(One Harbour Road)的主厨李树添(Li Shu-tim)说，仅一点点盐就可让茶味几乎完全消失，可想而知要用茶来入菜有多难。
李师傅说，多放茶叶或把茶叶多泡一会儿，只会让茶水的味道更苦，而不会让淡雅的清香更加浓郁。
如此说来，李师傅的拿手名菜茶熏脆鸡是如何做到茶香浓郁的呢？他向我们展示了其中的秘诀。
按摩：来到港湾一号的每只鸡在踏上变身“茶熏脆鸡”的旅程后，迎接它们的第一道工序就是要接受20秒的按摩，即在翅膀和腿部附近对它们进行快速敲打和揉搓，这样在挂起来之后，它们的身体会更为舒展，烹饪时也就更进味。
双份腌料：李师傅先把整只鸡放到沸水中汆烫40秒以去除血污，然后将干腌料(盐、五香粉和白胡椒混合在一起，共两汤匙的量)放入鸡的肚子里，再把湿腌料(白醋和麦芽糖的混合酱汁，满满三大长柄勺的量)涂抹在鸡的表面，然后把它吊起来，风干三个小时。这个过程不仅可保证腌料的味道能慢慢渗透到整只鸡当中，还能让鸡皮吃起来更脆。
油炸：做这道菜时，李师傅偏爱一种本地产的黄皮龙岗鸡(Lung Kungchicken)。这种鸡在鸡皮和鸡肉之间有一层厚厚的脂肪，而把它放在摄氏120度油温中炸约20分钟后，这层脂肪便几乎完全融化。李师傅说，一定要用菜油来炸，不能用花生油，因为菜油炸出来的颜色更金黄，而花生油会把鸡炸成深棕色。
烟熏：炸完后，把鸡放凉至室温，大概需要45分钟时间。这时李师傅在一个炒锅里铺上锡箔纸，准备熏鸡，这个步骤就是这道菜茶香浓郁的秘密所在。李师傅用一杯茶叶和三杯煮熟的白米饭混合在一起(注意哦，不光是纯茶叶)，然后把它们沿着锅边，紧紧压在铺了锡箔纸的炒锅内部。他解释说，很像是韩国餐馆里的石锅拌饭。他给炒锅盖上盖子，开始加热，直到米饭开始微微燃烧(冒烟就说明已经好了)。这时李师傅关火，把鸡放到锅里，再盖上盖子，让它在锅里熏上30分钟。
李师傅说，重要的是，这时一定要关火，千万不要加热，那样就会熟过头了。这个过程反而给鸡添了一股浓重的烟熏味，有一种米饭和茶叶微微烧焦的香味，闻起来与日本的玄米茶有些类似。
复炸：取另一只锅，把油加热到摄氏250度的高温，然后用长柄勺将热油淋到整只鸡上，快速完成第二次油炸过程。经过复炸，鸡的颜色会更深，皮也会格外的脆。然后李师傅将这只鸡装盘，并用炒过的普洱茶叶(一种发酵茶)围边。李师傅解释说，之所以用普洱茶，是因为它是香港人的最爱，有近八成的香港人在吃饭时会点普洱茶来喝。
价格：半只茶熏脆皮鸡的价格是210港元(合27美元)。
地点：香港湾仔港湾道一号香港君悦酒店八层港湾一号
电话：852-2584-7722
The next time you have a cup of tea at a Chinese restaurant, try this: Add a teaspoon of salt to it and take a sip.
'Justa little bit of salt and the tea flavor is almost completely gone,'says chef Li Shu-tim (known as chef Tim), who runs the kitchen of OneHarbour Road, the Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong's Grand Hyatt Hotel.'Now imagine how hard it is to cook with tea.'
Adding more tealeaves or simply steeping them longer only leads to more bitterness,without intensifying the floral and delicate aromas of the tea, says thechef.
So how did chef Tim get the intense tea flavor in his signature tea-smoked crispy chicken? He let us in on his secret technique.
Massage:Every chicken in the One Harbour Road kitchen begins its journey with a20-second massage ─ a quick crack and rub around its wings and legs, sothat they hang more loosely against the body and cook more thoroughly.
Adouble dose of marinade: After dunking the whole chicken into boilingwater for 40 seconds to clean it, the chef applies a dry marinade (twotablespoons of a mixture that includes salt, five-spice powder and whitepepper) to the inside cavity and a wet marinade (three full ladles of asauce made from white vinegar and malt sugar) to the outside. Thechicken is then hung to air dry for three hours, which not only ensuresthe flavors have time to permeate the bird, but also makes for a crisperskin.
Deep frying: Chef Tim favors a local breed ofyellow-skinned Lung Kung chicken, which has a signature thick layer offat between the skin and meat. When the Lung Kung is deep fried ─ at 120degrees Celsius for roughly 20 minutes ─ that fat melts off almostentirely. 'Make sure to use vegetable oil and not peanut oil,' says Mr.Li. 'It makes for a more golden rather than dark-brown color on theskin.'
Smoking: After letting the chicken cool to roomtemperature, which takes about 45 minutes, the chef lines a wok withfoil and prepares it for smoking. Here's where his tea-flavor trickcomes in: Instead of using tea leaves alone, the chef mixes about onecup of the leaves with three cups of cooked white rice. Then he pressesthe mixture against the side of the foil-covered wok. 'It's almost like ahot stone bibimbap that you get at Korean restaurants,' he explains. Hecovers the rice-and-tea-lined wok and heats it until the rice isslightly burning (the smoke is a sign it's ready). Then the chef turnsoff the fire, places his chicken in the covered wok and leaves it tosmoke for up to 30 minutes.
'It's important that the fire is off,so you don't add any heat to the meat and overcook it,' he says.Instead what the process adds is an intensely smoky flavor that carries asubtle charred fragrance from the rice and tea, similar to Japanesegenmaicha tea.
Double frying: A second quick fry inanother wok is achieved by ladling extremely hot oil (this time, 250degree Celsius) over the chicken, which further colors the skin andmakes it extra crisp. Then the chef serves his bird with fried leaves ofpuer ─ a type of fermented tea ─ on the side. 'Puer is a favorite amongHong Kongers,' he explains. 'Almost 80% of the people order it atmealtimes.'
Price: 210 Hong Kong dollars (US$27) for a half chicken.
One Harbour Road, 8/F Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wanchai, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-2584-7722
Grand Hyatt Hong Kong香港君悦酒店(Grand Hyatt Hotel)粤式餐厅港湾一号(One Harbour Road)的“茶熏脆鸡”。
下
次你在中国饭馆里喝茶时，试试给茶杯里加一茶匙的盐，然后再小啜一口。
香港君悦酒店(Grand Hyatt Hotel)粤式餐厅港湾一号(One Harbour Road)的主厨李树添(Li Shu-tim)说，仅一点点盐就可让茶味几乎完全消失，可想而知要用茶来入菜有多难。
李师傅说，多放茶叶或把茶叶多泡一会儿，只会让茶水的味道更苦，而不会让淡雅的清香更加浓郁。
如此说来，李师傅的拿手名菜茶熏脆鸡是如何做到茶香浓郁的呢？他向我们展示了其中的秘诀。
按摩：来到港湾一号的每只鸡在踏上变身“茶熏脆鸡”的旅程后，迎接它们的第一道工序就是要接受20秒的按摩，即在翅膀和腿部附近对它们进行快速敲打和揉搓，这样在挂起来之后，它们的身体会更为舒展，烹饪时也就更进味。
双份腌料：李师傅先把整只鸡放到沸水中汆烫40秒以去除血污，然后将干腌料(盐、五香粉和白胡椒混合在一起，共两汤匙的量)放入鸡的肚子里，再把湿腌料(白醋和麦芽糖的混合酱汁，满满三大长柄勺的量)涂抹在鸡的表面，然后把它吊起来，风干三个小时。这个过程不仅可保证腌料的味道能慢慢渗透到整只鸡当中，还能让鸡皮吃起来更脆。
油炸：做这道菜时，李师傅偏爱一种本地产的黄皮龙岗鸡(Lung Kungchicken)。这种鸡在鸡皮和鸡肉之间有一层厚厚的脂肪，而把它放在摄氏120度油温中炸约20分钟后，这层脂肪便几乎完全融化。李师傅说，一定要用菜油来炸，不能用花生油，因为菜油炸出来的颜色更金黄，而花生油会把鸡炸成深棕色。
烟熏：炸完后，把鸡放凉至室温，大概需要45分钟时间。这时李师傅在一个炒锅里铺上锡箔纸，准备熏鸡，这个步骤就是这道菜茶香浓郁的秘密所在。李师傅用一杯茶叶和三杯煮熟的白米饭混合在一起(注意哦，不光是纯茶叶)，然后把它们沿着锅边，紧紧压在铺了锡箔纸的炒锅内部。他解释说，很像是韩国餐馆里的石锅拌饭。他给炒锅盖上盖子，开始加热，直到米饭开始微微燃烧(冒烟就说明已经好了)。这时李师傅关火，把鸡放到锅里，再盖上盖子，让它在锅里熏上30分钟。
李师傅说，重要的是，这时一定要关火，千万不要加热，那样就会熟过头了。这个过程反而给鸡添了一股浓重的烟熏味，有一种米饭和茶叶微微烧焦的香味，闻起来与日本的玄米茶有些类似。
复炸：取另一只锅，把油加热到摄氏250度的高温，然后用长柄勺将热油淋到整只鸡上，快速完成第二次油炸过程。经过复炸，鸡的颜色会更深，皮也会格外的脆。然后李师傅将这只鸡装盘，并用炒过的普洱茶叶(一种发酵茶)围边。李师傅解释说，之所以用普洱茶，是因为它是香港人的最爱，有近八成的香港人在吃饭时会点普洱茶来喝。
价格：半只茶熏脆皮鸡的价格是210港元(合27美元)。
地点：香港湾仔港湾道一号香港君悦酒店八层港湾一号
电话：852-2584-7722
The next time you have a cup of tea at a Chinese restaurant, try this: Add a teaspoon of salt to it and take a sip.
'Justa little bit of salt and the tea flavor is almost completely gone,'says chef Li Shu-tim (known as chef Tim), who runs the kitchen of OneHarbour Road, the Cantonese restaurant in Hong Kong's Grand Hyatt Hotel.'Now imagine how hard it is to cook with tea.'
Adding more tealeaves or simply steeping them longer only leads to more bitterness,without intensifying the floral and delicate aromas of the tea, says thechef.
So how did chef Tim get the intense tea flavor in his signature tea-smoked crispy chicken? He let us in on his secret technique.
Massage:Every chicken in the One Harbour Road kitchen begins its journey with a20-second massage ─ a quick crack and rub around its wings and legs, sothat they hang more loosely against the body and cook more thoroughly.
Adouble dose of marinade: After dunking the whole chicken into boilingwater for 40 seconds to clean it, the chef applies a dry marinade (twotablespoons of a mixture that includes salt, five-spice powder and whitepepper) to the inside cavity and a wet marinade (three full ladles of asauce made from white vinegar and malt sugar) to the outside. Thechicken is then hung to air dry for three hours, which not only ensuresthe flavors have time to permeate the bird, but also makes for a crisperskin.
Deep frying: Chef Tim favors a local breed ofyellow-skinned Lung Kung chicken, which has a signature thick layer offat between the skin and meat. When the Lung Kung is deep fried ─ at 120degrees Celsius for roughly 20 minutes ─ that fat melts off almostentirely. 'Make sure to use vegetable oil and not peanut oil,' says Mr.Li. 'It makes for a more golden rather than dark-brown color on theskin.'
Smoking: After letting the chicken cool to roomtemperature, which takes about 45 minutes, the chef lines a wok withfoil and prepares it for smoking. Here's where his tea-flavor trickcomes in: Instead of using tea leaves alone, the chef mixes about onecup of the leaves with three cups of cooked white rice. Then he pressesthe mixture against the side of the foil-covered wok. 'It's almost like ahot stone bibimbap that you get at Korean restaurants,' he explains. Hecovers the rice-and-tea-lined wok and heats it until the rice isslightly burning (the smoke is a sign it's ready). Then the chef turnsoff the fire, places his chicken in the covered wok and leaves it tosmoke for up to 30 minutes.
'It's important that the fire is off,so you don't add any heat to the meat and overcook it,' he says.Instead what the process adds is an intensely smoky flavor that carries asubtle charred fragrance from the rice and tea, similar to Japanesegenmaicha tea.
Double frying: A second quick fry inanother wok is achieved by ladling extremely hot oil (this time, 250degree Celsius) over the chicken, which further colors the skin andmakes it extra crisp. Then the chef serves his bird with fried leaves ofpuer ─ a type of fermented tea ─ on the side. 'Puer is a favorite amongHong Kongers,' he explains. 'Almost 80% of the people order it atmealtimes.'
Price: 210 Hong Kong dollars (US$27) for a half chicken.
One Harbour Road, 8/F Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd., Wanchai, Hong Kong. Tel: 852-2584-7722