九乡新闻网诛仙张小凡:平壤夜生活
来源：百度文库 编辑：九乡新闻网 时间：2024/04/27 17:00:12
朝鲜首都平壤的夜色与其他和其规模相当的大城市完全不同。在缺电的平壤，夜幕降临时丝毫不像一座拥有两百万人口的城市，反而更像大海中心的夜色一样漆黑一片。从空中向下看，朝鲜象一块黑斑，与邻国中国和韩国的光污染形成鲜明对比。
Kristina Perez平壤一日游虽然如此，日落后的平壤却不会真的停顿。这座城市为稀少的游客提供了平壤版的夜生活。除了前来讨论核问题的外国特使和寻找商机的商人，每年还有约2000名西方游客来到平壤，多数均像我一样来观看著名的大型表演──阿里郎。该演出集大型团体操、舞蹈及军事进行曲为一体，还有数千人利用彩色翻板创造出令人难以置信的动画背景。
游客数量可能会略微增长。旅行社Koryo Tours称已经接到朝鲜政府通知，在非阿里郎演出季节（演出通常从八月至十月）可允许更多的美国人入境。Koryo Tours总部位于北京，是专门组织赴朝鲜旅行的机构。
游客在朝期间浏览的景点皆充斥着该国统治者金正日(Kim JongIl)所谓的“意识形态高于一切的内容”。（一名由政府派遣的导游兼看守日夜如影随行。）位于各景点首位的是用于宣扬该国已故领袖金日成(Kim IlSung)形象的万寿台大纪念碑，游客可在此献花，并依次鞠躬。另一个必看景点是美国军舰普韦布洛号(USSPueblo)，这是1968年朝鲜在近海俘获的一艘美国海军间谍船。当日，一名身着白色海军服的老者带领我们参观该舰，他原是该船的一名水手。下一个景点是地铁系统，站内装饰着农民起义的马赛克图案以及象征着星辰的枝型吊灯。
也有令人意想不到的地方，比如Pyolmuri茶馆。这是一个西式咖啡馆，名字翻译过来大体是群星的意思。该咖啡馆于2005年在非营利组织安泽国际救援协会(Adventist Development and ReliefAgency)的帮助下开业，店内配备了德国的烤箱和意大利的面条机，提供美味的苹果派、口味纯正的卡普契诺咖啡，并提供了坐下观赏路人的大好机会。埃及电信供应商Orascom去年给朝鲜带来了移动通信技术。如今，穿戴整齐的少女身着长裙，脚穿松糕鞋，手拿用彩色丝带装饰的手机，出现在人们面前。（在机场，游客已将手机和护照一同上交，登机离开朝鲜之前才会归还。）
夜晚降临前，（我们在看守的陪同下）沿着荒芜的大同江堤漫步到金日成广场。趁着光亮，游人可在此拍下一些如风景明信片般美丽的景色。观看日落的最佳位置是主体思想塔。该塔以朝鲜的官方思想体系命名。塔高170米，特为金日成70岁生日而建，据称每一块白色的石头代表着他在此之前生命的每一天。（金日成死于1994年，享年82岁，他的儿子是朝鲜目前的统治者，而金日成是“永远的主席”。）
Kristina Perez for The Wall Street Journal当记者在万景台餐厅就餐时突然停电。但女服务员早就料到会出现停电的情况，在我们还没有明白是怎么回事时，她们就拿来了几个硕大的手电筒，一张桌子放一个。从纪念碑顶处往下望，整个首都一览无余，一直可以看到环抱的远山。由于汽车不可以随便购买，上路车辆不多，加上重工业也非常少，这里的空气干净得出奇。
然后就得想想去哪里吃晚饭。磨蹭不得，平壤多数吃东西的地方一般都是在晚上九点以前关门。选择相当多，有清流馆(Chongryu HotPot)的火锅，有平壤第一烤鸭店(Pyongyang Duck Barbeque Restaurant No.1)的烤鸭，还有“澳门餐厅”（根据想象起名）的澳门食品，比如蛋挞。
不管选哪一家，都别指望有一个烛光晚餐。这里更有可能是举行手电筒晚餐。在到达的第一个晚上，我们旅游团选在万景台餐厅(MangyongdaeKITC)吃冷面加烤牛肉这种典型的朝鲜饭。当我们正在大吃的时候，灯灭了。但女服务员早就料到会出现停电的情况，在我们还没有明白是怎么回事时，她们就拿来了几个硕大的手电筒，一张桌子放一个。约一个小时后我们离开时，室内的灯还没有亮起来。
Kristina Perez for The Wall Street Journal羊角岛宾馆内的埃及宫殿(Egypt Palace)赌场，里面有老虎机、用于玩21点等纸牌的桌子一应俱全。这里一般要开到凌晨四点。这座城市的晚饭后生活一目了然：这里有一个夜总会，一个赌场，都在有1001个房间的羊角岛宾馆(YanggakdoHotel)。这是十几个允许外国人下榻的宾馆之一。（所有旅游宾馆确实都有一些夜生活，比如卡拉OK等，但羊角岛才是最佳选择。）在这里，你不会看到任何本地人，因为娱乐场所是不允许朝鲜公民进入的。
首先来到47楼的“旋转餐厅”(RevolvingRestaurant，也叫SwivelRestaurant)。完全是上个世纪80年代机场休息室的风格，但对商人和俄罗斯交换生仍有吸引力。在窗边占个座，一圈圈转着欣赏这个黑灯瞎火的城市。让服务员上烧酒。这是国酒，一般都用大米酿制，有时候也用橡果。
胆子小一点的游客可以尝尝朝鲜自己酿的几种啤酒。最有名的牌子有龙城(Ryongsong)，凤凰(Ponghak)和大同江(Taedonggang)。大同江去年奇怪地在国家电视台上播过广告，它是用曾经酿造英国特罗布里奇市Brown's Bitter和Mann's BestAle等啤酒的设备来酿造的。朝鲜从英国人那里收购了这家倒闭的酿酒厂，将机器拆卸后在2000年运到了朝鲜。餐厅到凌晨一、两点才关门，或者是等到最后一位顾客离开的时候。
带着酒意，到酒店地下的夜总会去，你可以跟着七、八十年代的流行老歌踏歌起舞（这是比吉斯(Bee Gees)《Stayin' Alive》的旋律吗？还是烧酒喝多了？）。如果人多的话，这里开到凌晨三点半左右，否则，工作人员在一点半左右就关门。
要是觉得还不尽兴，并且感觉手气不错的话，你可以走进隔壁房间，来到埃及宫殿(Egypt Palace)赌场。赌场里老虎机、用于玩21点等纸牌的桌子一应俱全。这里一般要开到凌晨四点。但如果你不住在这家宾馆，能玩多久就看你跟你的导游怎么商量了。
送走黑夜，早晨七点的“工人号角”会把全城的人叫醒。它可能起到的一个作用，就是让你知道自己喝烧酒是不是喝多了。
In North Korea's capital, 'after dark' means something different than inmost places its size. Nightfall in electricity-starved Pyongyang ismore like nightfall in the middle of the ocean than like nightfall in acity of two million people. Seen from space, North Korea is a black spotset against the light pollution of neighboring China and South Korea.
Forall that, Pyongyang doesn't actually shut down when the sun sets. Toserve its trickle of visitors, the city offers its own version ofnightlife. Besides foreign envoys shuttling in for nuclear discussionsand businesspeople looking to make deals, about 2,000 Western touristscome to Pyongyang each year, many, like me, to attend the famous,stadium-size show called Arirang. It's a spectacle of mass gymnastics,dance, military marching and incredible animated pictures created bythousands of people flipping colored cards.
The number ofvisitors could edge up. According to Koryo Tours, a Beijing-based agencyspecializing in trips to North Korea, the government has notified itthat more Americans will be let in during the non-Arirang season (theshow generally runs from August to October).
For tourists, thedays are filled with sights that have what ruler Kim Jong Il calls 'highideological content.' (A government-supplied guide and minder comesalong, day and night.) High on the list is the Mansudae Grand Monument,boasting a massive statue of the country's late founder, Kim Il Sung,where visitors lay flowers and line up to bow in an orderly fashion.Another must-see is the USS Pueblo, a U.S. Navy intelligence shipcaptured off the coast of North Korea in 1968; conducting the tour theday we visited was an elderly man dressed in navy whites who was one ofthe sailors in the original boarding party. And then there's theunderground train system, with its mosaics of peasants revolting andhuge chandeliers meant to look like stars.
But there's also theunexpected, like the Pyolmuri Teahouse, a Western-style cafe whose nametranslates roughly as 'constellation of the stars.' Opened in 2005 withthe help of the nonprofit Adventist Development and Relief Agency, thecafe -- equipped, as it proudly points out, with German-made ovens andItalian pasta-making machines -- offers a tasty apple pie, asurprisingly decent cappuccino and a great chance to people-watch.Egyptian telecommuncations provider Orascom brought mobile technology toNorth Korea last year, and now demurely dressed teenage girls areaccessorizing their hanboks, or traditional Korean dresses, withplatform shoes and colorful, decorative, straps on their cellphones. (Wetourists had surrendered our phones at the airport, along with ourpassports; they were returned just before we boarded the return flight.)
Asevening approaches, take a stroll (minder in tow) along the desertedembankment of the Taedong River to Kim Il Sung Square. From this vantagepoint, you can photograph some picture-postcard views while it's stilllight. An ideal place to watch the sunset is from the Tower of the JucheIdea, named for the country's official ideology, a word typicallytranslated as 'self-reliance.' The 170-meter tower, built on theoccasion of Kim Il Sung's 70th birthday, is said to contain one whitestone block for each day of his life to that point. (He died in 1994, atthe age of 82, and while his son is now ruler, the elder Kim is'eternal president.')
From the top there's a panoramic view overthe capital out to the surrounding mountains. The lack of cars on theroads -- vehicles aren't freely available for purchase -- and scarcityof heavy industry means the air is remarkably clear.
Then it'stime to think about where to have dinner. Don't dawdle; most Pyongyangeateries generally close by 9 p.m. The choices range quite widely, fromhot pot at Chongryu Hot Pot restaurant to roast duck at Pyongyang DuckBarbeque Restaurant No. 1 to Macanese fare such as egg tarts at theimaginatively named Macau Restaurant.
Whatever you pick, forgetdining by candlelight. Here, it's more likely to be by flashlight. On myfirst night, just as my tour group was tucking into a typical Koreanmeal of naengmyon (cold noodles) and bulgogi (barbecued beef) atMangyongdae KITC restaurant, the lights went out. But the waitresseshave come to expect power outages, and before we knew it they werecoming around with huge flashlights, one for each table. The room lightsstill hadn't come back on by the time we left about an hour later.
Checkingout the city's after-dinner scene is easy: There's one nightclub andone casino, both located in the same place, the 1,001-room YanggakdoHotel, one of about a dozen hotels where foreigners are allowed to stay.(All the tourist hotels do offer some evening activities -- like akaraoke bar -- but the Yanggakdo is the place to be.) You won't see anylocals here; the entertainment venues are off limits to North Koreancitizens.
Start at the aptly named Revolving Restaurant, alsoknown as the Swivel Restaurant, on the 47th floor. It has all theglamour of a 1980s airport lounge, but still attracts businesspeople andRussian exchange students. Grab a seat by the window and admire thelack of city lights as you circle around. Order a serving of soju.Traditionally made from rice, although sometimes also from acorns, it'sthe national liquor.
Less-adventurous travelers could sample someof the country's homegrown beer. The best-known brands are Ryongsong,Ponghak and Taedonggang. Taedonggang, which last year was bizarrely thesubject of an advertisement on state TV, is made using equipment thatonce produced the likes of Brown's Bitter and Mann's Best Ale inTrowbridge, England. North Korea bought the shut-down brewery from itsU.K. owner and had it dismantled and shipped over in 2000. Therestaurant stays open until 1 a.m. or 2 a.m, or when the last customerleaves.
Sufficiently mellowed, head for the nightclub on thelower ground floor. You can groove to the beat of familiar pop tunesfrom the '70s and '80s (was that the Bee Gees'[nbsp ]'Stayin' Alive,' ortoo much soju?) until about 3:30 a.m. if there's enough business;otherwise the staff close the doors at about 1:30 a.m.
If you'restill not ready to call it a night and you're feeling lucky, pop nextdoor to the Egypt Palace casino. Replete with slot machines and tablesfor card games including blackjack, the casino is generally open until 4a.m. But if you aren't staying in the hotel, how long you can playdepends on what kind of deal you can strike with your minder.
Afterthat, there is only the 7 a.m. 'workers' siren,' a citywide wake-upcall. It might serve to tell you whether you had too much soju.
Kristina Perez平壤一日游虽然如此，日落后的平壤却不会真的停顿。这座城市为稀少的游客提供了平壤版的夜生活。除了前来讨论核问题的外国特使和寻找商机的商人，每年还有约2000名西方游客来到平壤，多数均像我一样来观看著名的大型表演──阿里郎。该演出集大型团体操、舞蹈及军事进行曲为一体，还有数千人利用彩色翻板创造出令人难以置信的动画背景。游客数量可能会略微增长。旅行社Koryo Tours称已经接到朝鲜政府通知，在非阿里郎演出季节（演出通常从八月至十月）可允许更多的美国人入境。Koryo Tours总部位于北京，是专门组织赴朝鲜旅行的机构。
游客在朝期间浏览的景点皆充斥着该国统治者金正日(Kim JongIl)所谓的“意识形态高于一切的内容”。（一名由政府派遣的导游兼看守日夜如影随行。）位于各景点首位的是用于宣扬该国已故领袖金日成(Kim IlSung)形象的万寿台大纪念碑，游客可在此献花，并依次鞠躬。另一个必看景点是美国军舰普韦布洛号(USSPueblo)，这是1968年朝鲜在近海俘获的一艘美国海军间谍船。当日，一名身着白色海军服的老者带领我们参观该舰，他原是该船的一名水手。下一个景点是地铁系统，站内装饰着农民起义的马赛克图案以及象征着星辰的枝型吊灯。
也有令人意想不到的地方，比如Pyolmuri茶馆。这是一个西式咖啡馆，名字翻译过来大体是群星的意思。该咖啡馆于2005年在非营利组织安泽国际救援协会(Adventist Development and ReliefAgency)的帮助下开业，店内配备了德国的烤箱和意大利的面条机，提供美味的苹果派、口味纯正的卡普契诺咖啡，并提供了坐下观赏路人的大好机会。埃及电信供应商Orascom去年给朝鲜带来了移动通信技术。如今，穿戴整齐的少女身着长裙，脚穿松糕鞋，手拿用彩色丝带装饰的手机，出现在人们面前。（在机场，游客已将手机和护照一同上交，登机离开朝鲜之前才会归还。）
夜晚降临前，（我们在看守的陪同下）沿着荒芜的大同江堤漫步到金日成广场。趁着光亮，游人可在此拍下一些如风景明信片般美丽的景色。观看日落的最佳位置是主体思想塔。该塔以朝鲜的官方思想体系命名。塔高170米，特为金日成70岁生日而建，据称每一块白色的石头代表着他在此之前生命的每一天。（金日成死于1994年，享年82岁，他的儿子是朝鲜目前的统治者，而金日成是“永远的主席”。）
Kristina Perez for The Wall Street Journal当记者在万景台餐厅就餐时突然停电。但女服务员早就料到会出现停电的情况，在我们还没有明白是怎么回事时，她们就拿来了几个硕大的手电筒，一张桌子放一个。从纪念碑顶处往下望，整个首都一览无余，一直可以看到环抱的远山。由于汽车不可以随便购买，上路车辆不多，加上重工业也非常少，这里的空气干净得出奇。然后就得想想去哪里吃晚饭。磨蹭不得，平壤多数吃东西的地方一般都是在晚上九点以前关门。选择相当多，有清流馆(Chongryu HotPot)的火锅，有平壤第一烤鸭店(Pyongyang Duck Barbeque Restaurant No.1)的烤鸭，还有“澳门餐厅”（根据想象起名）的澳门食品，比如蛋挞。
不管选哪一家，都别指望有一个烛光晚餐。这里更有可能是举行手电筒晚餐。在到达的第一个晚上，我们旅游团选在万景台餐厅(MangyongdaeKITC)吃冷面加烤牛肉这种典型的朝鲜饭。当我们正在大吃的时候，灯灭了。但女服务员早就料到会出现停电的情况，在我们还没有明白是怎么回事时，她们就拿来了几个硕大的手电筒，一张桌子放一个。约一个小时后我们离开时，室内的灯还没有亮起来。
Kristina Perez for The Wall Street Journal羊角岛宾馆内的埃及宫殿(Egypt Palace)赌场，里面有老虎机、用于玩21点等纸牌的桌子一应俱全。这里一般要开到凌晨四点。这座城市的晚饭后生活一目了然：这里有一个夜总会，一个赌场，都在有1001个房间的羊角岛宾馆(YanggakdoHotel)。这是十几个允许外国人下榻的宾馆之一。（所有旅游宾馆确实都有一些夜生活，比如卡拉OK等，但羊角岛才是最佳选择。）在这里，你不会看到任何本地人，因为娱乐场所是不允许朝鲜公民进入的。首先来到47楼的“旋转餐厅”(RevolvingRestaurant，也叫SwivelRestaurant)。完全是上个世纪80年代机场休息室的风格，但对商人和俄罗斯交换生仍有吸引力。在窗边占个座，一圈圈转着欣赏这个黑灯瞎火的城市。让服务员上烧酒。这是国酒，一般都用大米酿制，有时候也用橡果。
胆子小一点的游客可以尝尝朝鲜自己酿的几种啤酒。最有名的牌子有龙城(Ryongsong)，凤凰(Ponghak)和大同江(Taedonggang)。大同江去年奇怪地在国家电视台上播过广告，它是用曾经酿造英国特罗布里奇市Brown's Bitter和Mann's BestAle等啤酒的设备来酿造的。朝鲜从英国人那里收购了这家倒闭的酿酒厂，将机器拆卸后在2000年运到了朝鲜。餐厅到凌晨一、两点才关门，或者是等到最后一位顾客离开的时候。
带着酒意，到酒店地下的夜总会去，你可以跟着七、八十年代的流行老歌踏歌起舞（这是比吉斯(Bee Gees)《Stayin' Alive》的旋律吗？还是烧酒喝多了？）。如果人多的话，这里开到凌晨三点半左右，否则，工作人员在一点半左右就关门。
要是觉得还不尽兴，并且感觉手气不错的话，你可以走进隔壁房间，来到埃及宫殿(Egypt Palace)赌场。赌场里老虎机、用于玩21点等纸牌的桌子一应俱全。这里一般要开到凌晨四点。但如果你不住在这家宾馆，能玩多久就看你跟你的导游怎么商量了。
送走黑夜，早晨七点的“工人号角”会把全城的人叫醒。它可能起到的一个作用，就是让你知道自己喝烧酒是不是喝多了。
In North Korea's capital, 'after dark' means something different than inmost places its size. Nightfall in electricity-starved Pyongyang ismore like nightfall in the middle of the ocean than like nightfall in acity of two million people. Seen from space, North Korea is a black spotset against the light pollution of neighboring China and South Korea.
Forall that, Pyongyang doesn't actually shut down when the sun sets. Toserve its trickle of visitors, the city offers its own version ofnightlife. Besides foreign envoys shuttling in for nuclear discussionsand businesspeople looking to make deals, about 2,000 Western touristscome to Pyongyang each year, many, like me, to attend the famous,stadium-size show called Arirang. It's a spectacle of mass gymnastics,dance, military marching and incredible animated pictures created bythousands of people flipping colored cards.
The number ofvisitors could edge up. According to Koryo Tours, a Beijing-based agencyspecializing in trips to North Korea, the government has notified itthat more Americans will be let in during the non-Arirang season (theshow generally runs from August to October).
For tourists, thedays are filled with sights that have what ruler Kim Jong Il calls 'highideological content.' (A government-supplied guide and minder comesalong, day and night.) High on the list is the Mansudae Grand Monument,boasting a massive statue of the country's late founder, Kim Il Sung,where visitors lay flowers and line up to bow in an orderly fashion.Another must-see is the USS Pueblo, a U.S. Navy intelligence shipcaptured off the coast of North Korea in 1968; conducting the tour theday we visited was an elderly man dressed in navy whites who was one ofthe sailors in the original boarding party. And then there's theunderground train system, with its mosaics of peasants revolting andhuge chandeliers meant to look like stars.
But there's also theunexpected, like the Pyolmuri Teahouse, a Western-style cafe whose nametranslates roughly as 'constellation of the stars.' Opened in 2005 withthe help of the nonprofit Adventist Development and Relief Agency, thecafe -- equipped, as it proudly points out, with German-made ovens andItalian pasta-making machines -- offers a tasty apple pie, asurprisingly decent cappuccino and a great chance to people-watch.Egyptian telecommuncations provider Orascom brought mobile technology toNorth Korea last year, and now demurely dressed teenage girls areaccessorizing their hanboks, or traditional Korean dresses, withplatform shoes and colorful, decorative, straps on their cellphones. (Wetourists had surrendered our phones at the airport, along with ourpassports; they were returned just before we boarded the return flight.)
Asevening approaches, take a stroll (minder in tow) along the desertedembankment of the Taedong River to Kim Il Sung Square. From this vantagepoint, you can photograph some picture-postcard views while it's stilllight. An ideal place to watch the sunset is from the Tower of the JucheIdea, named for the country's official ideology, a word typicallytranslated as 'self-reliance.' The 170-meter tower, built on theoccasion of Kim Il Sung's 70th birthday, is said to contain one whitestone block for each day of his life to that point. (He died in 1994, atthe age of 82, and while his son is now ruler, the elder Kim is'eternal president.')
From the top there's a panoramic view overthe capital out to the surrounding mountains. The lack of cars on theroads -- vehicles aren't freely available for purchase -- and scarcityof heavy industry means the air is remarkably clear.
Then it'stime to think about where to have dinner. Don't dawdle; most Pyongyangeateries generally close by 9 p.m. The choices range quite widely, fromhot pot at Chongryu Hot Pot restaurant to roast duck at Pyongyang DuckBarbeque Restaurant No. 1 to Macanese fare such as egg tarts at theimaginatively named Macau Restaurant.
Whatever you pick, forgetdining by candlelight. Here, it's more likely to be by flashlight. On myfirst night, just as my tour group was tucking into a typical Koreanmeal of naengmyon (cold noodles) and bulgogi (barbecued beef) atMangyongdae KITC restaurant, the lights went out. But the waitresseshave come to expect power outages, and before we knew it they werecoming around with huge flashlights, one for each table. The room lightsstill hadn't come back on by the time we left about an hour later.
Checkingout the city's after-dinner scene is easy: There's one nightclub andone casino, both located in the same place, the 1,001-room YanggakdoHotel, one of about a dozen hotels where foreigners are allowed to stay.(All the tourist hotels do offer some evening activities -- like akaraoke bar -- but the Yanggakdo is the place to be.) You won't see anylocals here; the entertainment venues are off limits to North Koreancitizens.
Start at the aptly named Revolving Restaurant, alsoknown as the Swivel Restaurant, on the 47th floor. It has all theglamour of a 1980s airport lounge, but still attracts businesspeople andRussian exchange students. Grab a seat by the window and admire thelack of city lights as you circle around. Order a serving of soju.Traditionally made from rice, although sometimes also from acorns, it'sthe national liquor.
Less-adventurous travelers could sample someof the country's homegrown beer. The best-known brands are Ryongsong,Ponghak and Taedonggang. Taedonggang, which last year was bizarrely thesubject of an advertisement on state TV, is made using equipment thatonce produced the likes of Brown's Bitter and Mann's Best Ale inTrowbridge, England. North Korea bought the shut-down brewery from itsU.K. owner and had it dismantled and shipped over in 2000. Therestaurant stays open until 1 a.m. or 2 a.m, or when the last customerleaves.
Sufficiently mellowed, head for the nightclub on thelower ground floor. You can groove to the beat of familiar pop tunesfrom the '70s and '80s (was that the Bee Gees'[nbsp ]'Stayin' Alive,' ortoo much soju?) until about 3:30 a.m. if there's enough business;otherwise the staff close the doors at about 1:30 a.m.
If you'restill not ready to call it a night and you're feeling lucky, pop nextdoor to the Egypt Palace casino. Replete with slot machines and tablesfor card games including blackjack, the casino is generally open until 4a.m. But if you aren't staying in the hotel, how long you can playdepends on what kind of deal you can strike with your minder.
Afterthat, there is only the 7 a.m. 'workers' siren,' a citywide wake-upcall. It might serve to tell you whether you had too much soju.